A few tools you want to have before you start this project:

1. 27 millimeter 5/8 13 millimeter;
2. 10 millimeter 5/16 socket;
3. sharp utility knife;
4. a hammer;
5. tape measure;
6. crescent wrench;
7. straightedge.

Step-by-Step instruction

1. Upon opening the box you’re going to find your first mudflap. Underneath is the rest of the kit: parts, hardware, and tools. We’re going to start by removing the hub assembly and mounting it to our vehicle. Slide your 2-inch ball mount through the hub assembly, then into the receiver, securing it with the hitch pin. Next hand tighten both ball mount clamp bolts.
2. Take your 5/8 socket and tighten the client bolts evenly. These should be torqued down 120 to 180-inch pumps. Next, tighten up the jam nuts on both sides. This prevents the ball mount clamp bolts from loosening from vibration.
3. Going back to our workstation, we’re going to remove the flap clamps. The stainless steel flap support rides the stainless steel trim plates and the hardware bag. Underneath the styrofoam, you’ll find your second flap. Inside the hardware bag, you’re going to find three supper bags. You’re going to find the trim plate bolts, the flap clamp bolts, the tools, and the end caps. We’re going to start with the trim plate.
4. This is the bag with the spacers in it and they’re the smallest screws. Take one of your mud flaps and make sure that it’s face down and grab a trim plate. We’re going to mount this from underneath. Make sure that you don’t put the trim plate backward. The reason we do this is it’s a lot easier to push the bolt up through the bottom and install the spacer.
5. Do this step in the opposite corner to hold the trim plate up. Continue this process until all screws are in. Grab the star wrench that’s provided in your ten-millimeter socket. Make sure you don’t over-tighten these because you’ll damage the trim plate. These screws should be tightened to 20-inch pounds.
6. Continue to step for the second flap. Now you want to adjust both hub arms to your desired position. Ours is straight up, the arms can swing down for vehicles that have exhaust pipes coming out the back. The next step is to measure from the ground up to the bottom with a hole in the hub arm. Our measurement here is 24 inches. This measurement should be made while the vehicle has full tongue weight, to keep the flaps from dragging on the ground.
7. We’re going to measure from the bottom of the flap up to our 24 inches and subtract three to four inches and find the nearest pre-molded cut line. This is where we’ll cut the flap. Take your straight edge and a sharp utility knife and cut all the way through the flap. Make sure you’re doing this on a piece of cardboard or a piece of wood to protect the face of the mud flap and your tools. You can also use a wood pallet.
8. Take the provided hole punch and your hammer and punch out all five of the pre-molded holes. We like doing it with a drill in the three-eighths. After you have all the holes drilled in both flaps, go back to your workstation. Grab a flap clamp. You’ll notice a round hole in a square hole. Make sure the square hole is facing the front of the flap. We’re going to start by installing a clamp bolt on the end, then move to the opposite end and do the same thing. This is going to make it easier to install the other three bolts. Do not tighten these bolts yet. Follow the same procedure on the second flap.

Now there are two ways to install the flap support rods.

1. You can remove the bolt and end cap and slide it through the hub arm, then reinstall the cap in the bolt.
2. Alternatively, you can swing the hub arm down and slide it through.

Either way, make sure the arm clamp bolts are loose. Looking closer at the flap support rod, you’ll see three holes:

• The one farthest out is for large vehicles and Dooley’s;
• Middle holes for full-size vehicles;
• The last holes are for small to mid-size vehicles.

Take a mud flap and slide the flap clamp over the rod. Line up the desired hole. Push the flap retaining bolt through, and secure it with your 5/16 socket. Taking your 13-millimeter socket, tighten up the mud flap clamp bolts. Snug these up, moving back to the first one. Again tighten it to 30-inch pops. With the mudflap installed on the support rod, you can make any final adjustments. You want the flaps extended about two inches past the outside of your tire using the supplied 5-millimeter wrench. Snug up the arm clamp bolts. These should be torqued to 70 to 80-inch pounds. You don’t want to over-tighten these because you don’t want to break it.

Next, take your 27 millimeter socket and tighten the arm pivot bolts to 125 foot-pounds push on your end caps and you’re ready to go!